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A standard cordless drill/driver can punch an occasional hole in brick or mortar, but it fights you the whole way — slow going, fast-wearing bits, and a real risk of stalling in dense block or cured concrete. A hammer drill adds a rapid hammering action behind the rotation, which pulverizes masonry ahead of the bit instead of relying on spin alone.
That makes a cordless hammer drill the right tool for anchoring a ledger board, mounting a railing bracket, running conduit through a block wall, or any other job that calls for drilling into brick, block, or concrete rather than wood or metal.
Every pick below is a full hammer drill/driver, not just a drill with a 'masonry mode' sticker — each one also runs as a normal two or three-speed drill/driver for everyday wood and metal drilling, so you're not giving up an everyday drill to get hammer capability.
Only drilling wood, drywall, and metal and don't need the hammer action? Save some weight and cost with our picks for the best cordless drills.
Hammer Drill vs. Rotary Hammer: Which Do You Need?
A hammer drill looks and handles like a standard drill/driver, and every model below still works as one — it just adds a hammering action on top of rotation for masonry. That makes it the right choice for drilling anchor holes, mounting brackets, or running the occasional conduit run through brick or block.
A rotary hammer uses a more aggressive piston-driven mechanism built for sustained, heavy-duty concrete drilling and light demolition — think SDS-plus bits and all-day anchor work on a job site. If you're an occasional DIYer drilling a handful of anchor holes, a hammer drill is the easier, more versatile choice. If you're regularly drilling large-diameter holes in cured concrete, a rotary hammer is worth a dedicated purchase.
How we picked: We focused on hammer drill/drivers with a genuine hammer mode (not just a high-speed setting), a metal ratcheting chuck that can handle masonry bits without slipping, and support from a battery platform with a broad tool lineup. We weighed published torque and impact-rate specs, chuck quality, and owner feedback on real masonry performance rather than running our own lab tests.
At a glance
#PickWhy it stands outPrice
01DeWalt DCD996B 20V MAX XR Brushless 3-Speed 1/2" Hammer Drill (Tool Only)Top Pickoverall for serious masonry and concrete work - Three-speed gearbox adds a true low range for drilling large masonry bits without bogging downCheck Amazon →
02Milwaukee M18 FUEL 2904-20 1/2" Hammer Drill/DriverRunner-uppower and heat management under heavy drilling loads - POWERSTATE brushless motor delivers 1,400 in-lbs of torque, strong for an 18V hammer drillCheck Amazon →
03Makita XPH14Z 18V LXT Brushless 1/2" Hammer Driver-DrillBest Valuebalance of size and hammering power - 1,250 in-lbs of torque with a 31,500 BPM hammer rate covers most anchor and masonry workCheck Amazon →
04Bosch GSB18V-490N 18V EC Brushless 1/2" Hammer Drill/DriverAlso greatprecise torque control on delicate anchors - 20-position precision clutch reduces the risk of overdriving anchors or stripping light fastenersCheck Amazon →
05Ryobi ONE+ HP PBLHM101 18V Brushless 1/2" Hammer Drill (Tool Only)Also greatbudget pick for occasional masonry work - Real hammer mode and metal ratcheting chuck at a much lower price than the pro-tier picks hereCheck Amazon →
Do I actually need a hammer drill, or will a regular drill with a masonry bit work?
A regular drill/driver with a carbide masonry bit can handle occasional shallow holes in brick or soft mortar joints. For drilling into cured concrete or dense block — especially for anchors that need to hold real weight — a hammer drill drills faster, with far less bit wear and less strain on the tool's motor.
Will a hammer drill damage wood or metal if I use it as a regular drill?
No. Every pick above has a separate drill/driver mode that disables the hammering action, so it behaves like a standard drill for wood, drywall, and metal. The hammer function only engages when you switch into hammer mode.
Do I need special bits for a hammer drill?
Yes — use carbide-tipped masonry bits rated for hammer drilling, not standard twist bits. They're widely available in the same bit sets used for regular drills, just look for a masonry or carbide-tip label.