Sandpaper Grit Guide: What Grit to Use for Every DIY Sanding Job
Grabbing the wrong grit is the easiest way to waste an afternoon — too coarse and you gouge the surface or blow through a thin veneer, too fine and you're polishing instead of actually removing material.
This guide walks through which grit to reach for by project, plus how to step through a full grit progression instead of guessing at a single number.
The grit progression, in plain terms
Lower numbers (40-60 grit) are coarse and remove material fast — think stripping old finish or leveling a badly uneven surface. Mid-range grits (80-150) handle general smoothing and the bulk of everyday sanding. Fine grits (180-220) prep a surface for stain or paint, and anything above 320 is for polishing between coats rather than shaping wood.
Skipping too many steps in the progression leaves visible scratch marks from the coarser grit that the next step can't fully erase. As a rule of thumb, don't jump more than one full grit tier at a time (for example 80 to 120, not 80 to 220).
Stripping paint or an old finish
Start at 60-80 grit to cut through built-up paint or varnish without excessive clogging, then move to 120-150 grit to smooth out the swirl marks the coarse paper leaves behind.
On painted wood, check for lead paint first if the structure predates 1978 — sanding is not the safe removal method in that case, and a chemical stripper or professional abatement is the right call instead.
Refinishing furniture or cabinets
Most furniture refinishing starts around 100-120 grit to remove the old topcoat, steps to 150-180 grit to erase those marks, and finishes at 220 grit immediately before stain or sealer so the wood absorbs it evenly.
Always sand with the grain on solid wood — cross-grain scratches from an orbital sander are usually invisible until stain reveals every one of them.
Drywall patch and spackle
150-220 grit is the right range for drywall mud — anything coarser tends to chew through the paper layer and roughen the surface instead of smoothing it. A fine-grit sanding sponge works well for feathering the edges of a patch into the surrounding wall.
Drywall dust is extremely fine and spreads easily, so this is a job worth connecting to a shop vacuum rather than relying on a sander's built-in dust bag.
Between coats of paint, stain, or polyurethane
Use 220-320 grit (or a fine sanding sponge) to knock down dust nibs and raised grain between coats without cutting back into the layer underneath. The goal here is a light scuff, not material removal.
Wipe away sanding dust with a tack cloth before applying the next coat — leftover dust is one of the most common causes of a gritty final finish.
Sanding metal
Metal prep generally starts coarser and finishes finer than wood: 80-120 grit to remove rust or old coatings, 180-220 grit to smooth the surface, and 320+ grit only if you're after a polished look rather than a painted one.
Use aluminum oxide or zirconia abrasives rather than standard wood-sanding paper — they hold up far better against metal and clog less.
Frequently Asked Questions
- What's the difference between hook-and-loop and PSA sanding discs?
- Hook-and-loop discs attach and detach instantly for swapping grits mid-job, while PSA (adhesive-backed) discs stick permanently once applied and are typically cheaper per disc. Most random orbital sanders sold today use hook-and-loop, which is worth checking before you stock up on discs for a specific model.
- Can I reuse sandpaper that's loaded up with dust or paint?
- Once a disc is visibly clogged or loaded with paint, it stops cutting effectively and just burnishes the surface. A stiff brush can clear light dust buildup between passes, but a loaded disc is usually cheap enough to replace rather than fight with.
- Do I need a different grit for a cordless versus corded sander?
- No — grit choice depends on the material and the job, not the sander's power source. A cordless sander's shorter runtime just means you may want extra discs and a charged spare battery on hand for a full grit progression in one sitting.